Guide · 5 min read

1943 Steel Penny & 1943 Copper Penny: How to Tell Them Apart

Why 1943 cents are steel, what they are worth and how to test a rare 1943 bronze (copper) penny and the 1944 steel penny errors.

By the WePlayCoins editors

In 1943 copper was urgently needed for ammunition and wiring, so the Mint struck the cent in zinc-coated steel instead. The result is the only regular-issue US coin that sticks to a magnet. It is also the reason for one of the most famous error coins in the world.

The ordinary 1943 steel cent

About 1,093,838,670 steel cents were struck: 684,628,670 in Philadelphia (no mint mark), 217,660,000 in Denver (D) and 191,550,000 in San Francisco (S). With such huge mintages they are common: circulated examples are inexpensive, while bright, uncirculated coins and high-grade "S" examples carry premiums. The coins were unpopular: they were confused with dimes and rusted when the zinc coating wore through.

Many 1943 cents for sale have been "reprocessed": stripped and re-zinced to look new. They have an unnaturally bright, even surface and are worth little more than a worn coin.

The 1943 copper (bronze) penny

A few leftover bronze planchets from 1942 were caught in the presses and struck with 1943 dies. Standard references list about a dozen known from Philadelphia, four from San Francisco and a single Denver example. Genuine pieces are significant rarities sold through major auctions.

How to test a 1943 "copper" penny

  1. Magnet test. A genuine bronze 1943 cent is not magnetic. If it sticks, it is a steel cent that has been copper-plated.
  2. Weigh it. Bronze cents weigh about 3.11 g; steel cents weigh about 2.7 g.
  3. Check the date. Many fakes are 1948 cents with the 8 altered into a 3. Look closely at the shape of the final digit.
  4. Get it authenticated. Only PCGS, NGC or a similar major service should be trusted with a coin of this value.

The reverse error: 1944 steel cents

In 1944 the Mint returned to copper-based "shell case" brass, but a few leftover steel planchets were struck with 1944 dies. These 1944 steel cents are also great rarities. Here the test is reversed: a genuine one sticks to a magnet.

See the 1943 cent, 1943 copper cent and 1944 steel cent pages for mintages and details.

How the steel cents were made

The 1943 cents were punched from steel strip that had already been coated with zinc. As a result the zinc covers both faces of each coin but not the edge, where the bare steel was exposed when the blank was cut. That is why rust usually starts at the rim of a 1943 cent and spreads inward. The steel was also harder than the bronze the presses normally struck, which made the coins more difficult to strike fully and wore out dies faster.

When new, the coins were bright silver-gray. Handling and moisture quickly dulled them, which added to their reputation as an unpopular coin. In 1944 the Mint switched to brass made partly from recycled cartridge cases and the steel cent was never repeated.

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The variety worth checking for

Among ordinary steel cents, the best-known variety is the 1943-D with a boldly repunched mint mark, listed by collectors as the 1943-D/D. The second D sits clearly offset from the first, so it can be seen with a 10x loupe. Check every Denver steel cent you find for a doubled outline around the mint mark. Doubling on the date or lettering is much more often machine doubling, which carries no premium.

How the bronze 1943 cent was found

The most famous discovery came in 1947, when a 16-year-old named Don Lutes Jr. found a 1943 bronze cent in his change at a school cafeteria in Pittsfield, Massachusetts. He kept it for the rest of his life and it was sold after his death. Stories like his, together with a persistent false rumor that Henry Ford would give a new car to anyone who found a copper 1943 cent, sent millions of people looking through their change. They also created a market for fakes: copper-plated steel cents were sold as novelties for decades and still turn up in old collections.

Grading and caring for steel cents

Wear shows first on Lincoln's cheekbone and jaw and on the lines of the wheat stalks, as on other wheat cents. On steel cents the surface matters just as much. Look for even, original gray luster without dark spots, rust or white zinc corrosion. Coins with bright, uniformly silver surfaces but softened detail have usually been reprocessed. Steel cents corrode easily, so keep them in a dry place in inert holders, avoid touching their faces and never try to remove spots, which only exposes more steel to the air.

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Quick reference for 1943 and 1944 cents

A normal 1943 cent sticks to a magnet and weighs about 2.7 grams. A genuine 1943 bronze cent does not stick and weighs about 3.11 grams. A normal 1944 cent does not stick and weighs about 3.11 grams. A genuine 1944 steel cent sticks and weighs about 2.7 grams. Any coin that fails to match the pattern for its date deserves a closer look under magnification before it is sent for authentication.

Frequently asked questions

Why are 1943 pennies magnetic?

They are made of steel with a thin zinc coating. Steel is attracted to a magnet, while the copper-based cents of other years are not.

Where is the mint mark on a 1943 penny?

Directly below the date on the obverse. Philadelphia cents have no mint mark, Denver cents have a D and San Francisco cents have an S.

Is a 1943 penny with no mint mark rare?

No. Philadelphia struck the largest share of 1943 steel cents, so coins without a mint mark are the most common of the three.

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