What it is
A Mercury dime die was hubbed once with a 1941 date and again with 1942, leaving a clear 1 under the 2. Both Philadelphia and Denver versions exist; the Denver one is scarcer.
How to identify it
- The final 2 of the date shows the vertical stroke of a 1 running through it.
- On the Denver coin the D sits on the reverse to the left of the fasces.
- The overdate is visible without magnification on well-preserved coins.
A 5x to 10x loupe and good, angled light make the details much easier to see. For anything that looks genuine, a digital scale and a certified comparison coin help.
What gets mistaken for it
Damage or a die chip on the 2 can mimic the overdate. Altered and counterfeit pieces exist.
How the 1942/1 overdate was made
Dies for 1942 were made in late 1941 as the die shop prepared for the new year. At least one obverse die received an impression from a 1941 hub and then another from a 1942 hub, which left the 1 visible under the 2. A similar die went to Denver, creating the 1942/1-D. Because dies were made at Philadelphia, the two overdates are separate dies made the same way.
The Mercury dime, designed by Adolph A. Weinman, was struck from 1916 to 1945 in 90% silver. The 1942/1 is the most famous overdate in the series and one of its best-known coins.
Discovery and fame
The Philadelphia overdate was found soon after the coins entered circulation. Many examples circulated for years, which is why most surviving coins show wear. The Denver overdate was recognized later and is scarcer.
Its clear 1 under the 2 made it easy to see and explain. It earned a regular listing in the Red Book beside the normal dates. That listing made it a required coin for anyone trying to complete a Mercury dime album.
A step-by-step check
On well-preserved coins the overdate can be seen without magnification, but use a 5x loupe on worn coins. Look at the last digit of the date: the upright stroke of a 1 shows clearly within the 2. Look at the 4 as well, where the two hubbings left a doubled serif at the top and a notch near the base of the upright.
For the Denver coin, turn it over and confirm the D to the left of the fasces. On the Philadelphia coin there is no mint mark. Weigh the coin: a silver dime weighs about 2.5 grams.
Look-alikes and fakes
A 1942 dime with a scratch or a die crack through the 2 can look like the overdate at a glance. Under magnification the genuine 1 has straight, raised sides and fits the style of the other digits. Altered coins have been made by engraving a 1 into a 1942 dime. The engraved line shows tool marks. Struck counterfeits exist as well.
Also watch for a 1942-D dime with a repunched mint mark. That is a separate, minor variety and does not make the coin an overdate.
Grades and the Full Bands designation
Most 1942/1 dimes grade from Very Good to Extremely Fine. Uncirculated examples are rare. Mercury dimes are also graded for Full Bands, the designation for complete separation of the horizontal bands across the fasces on the reverse. A 1942/1 with Full Bands is one of the most desirable Mercury dimes.
Original surfaces matter. Silver dimes tone with time. Cleaned coins with hairlines receive details grades.
How the overdate looks at different grades
On coins in Good condition the date is often worn flat at the top and the 1 may be visible only as a faint line through the 2. From Very Fine upward the full 1 is usually clear from top to bottom inside the 2. On Uncirculated coins it is bold enough to see at arm's length. Judge the coin by how much of the 1 is still visible, not by the grade alone, since a weakly struck coin can hide the overdate even when it shows little wear.
Authentication
PCGS and NGC certify both the 1942/1 and the 1942/1-D. Because of their value and the number of altered coins, buy only certified examples from major services and verify the certification number.
Related Mercury dime coins
Store any 1942/1 in an inert holder rather than an old soft plastic flip. Flips made with PVC can leave a green, sticky residue on silver coins that damages the surface and lowers the grade. Coins already in such flips should be moved to safer holders.
Mercury dime collectors place the 1942/1 alongside the 1916-D key date, the 1921 and 1921-D and its Denver twin, the 1942/1-D. Together they form the hardest coins in a complete Mercury dime set.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if I have a 1942/1 Mercury Dime Overdate?
The final 2 of the date shows the vertical stroke of a 1 running through it. On the Denver coin the D sits on the reverse to the left of the fasces. If your coin passes these checks, have it authenticated by PCGS or NGC before buying or selling.
Is the 1942/1 Mercury Dime Overdate valuable?
Genuine examples sell for a premium over regular coins of the same date. The amount depends on how strong the variety is, the coin's condition and whether it is certified. Compare recent sold auction results for certified coins in the same grade.
What is a overdate?
An overdate shows one date punched or hubbed over another, usually because the Mint reused a die from the previous year. Read more about overdates.
Can you see the 1942/1 overdate without a magnifier?
On well-preserved coins, yes. Worn coins need a 5x loupe to see the 1 through the 2.
Which 1942/1 Mercury dime is rarer, Philadelphia or Denver?
The Denver overdate is scarcer than the Philadelphia overdate.